Home Brewery Upgrade--Limitations of my Current Setup

I have been brewing on the Morebeer B3-200 since I started brewing all grain.  It's the most basic setup:  two orange coolers, a brew kettle, and some tubing.  The bulkheads, the spigots, and the fittings are all original--which makes them 10 years old.  I have replaced tubing, of course, and I added a 1/2" stainless ball valve spigot and bazooka screen to the brew kettle about 18 months ago but that's about it.

"Three tier Brew Stand"

Sparge arm that came with the setup.
I think it was manufactured by Listerman
or Fermentap--not even sure they're
still in business...

Original stainless steel ball valve with
a plastic barb fitting.

Runoff into the BK

Stovetop boiling.  What a mess.

This setup has served me very well up to now, but I am beginning to feel its limitations, so I know it's time to update it.  Some of the limitations I need to address:

1.  Fly sparging with the lid off = massive heat loss.  As seen in the above photo, I have no way to fly sparge with the lid on the mash tun under this current setup.  You may well imagine that after 45-60 minutes with the lid off, the temperature of the mash drops significantly (down to about 140 or below, in fact).  It's been ok up to now--just a minor inconvenience--but if I hope to improve my beer, I need to figure out a way to keep the lid on during the sparge.

2.  Can't fire the BK until runoff is complete.  Because my setup is 100% gravity driven, and because I don't have a proper 3 tier brew stand, my BK sits on the floor during runoff.  This means that I can't apply heat to it until after I've collected my full volume of wort and moved it to the stove top.  I imagine I could easily shave 60-90 minutes off my brew day just by maintaining temp during the sparge and firing up the kettle sooner.

3.  Stovetop boiling is no good.  I have gone through a few different iterations of kettle setup, but since we moved into this house 10 months ago, I've been boiling on this glass topped stove.  No good.  Can't attain or maintain a good rolling boil without the lid on the kettle, and I'm pretty sure I'm destroying this stove, which certainly was not designed to boil 10 gallons of anything for 60-90 minutes.  I need a proper heat source for my kettle, I need to get this kettle off the stove before I have to explain to my wife that I broke it, and I need a configuration that eliminates the need to carry my full kettle from one place to another.

4.  Added a plate chiller; created issues.  A few months ago I replaced my immersion chiller with a Shirron plate chiller.  Love the fact that I got the IC out of my wort, but the addition of a plate chiller without any other modifications to my process has caused two issues:
   
     a.  Cold break all ends up in the fermenter.  I understand that a little bit of break
          material in the fermenter is a good idea since it contains nutrients for the yeast, but
          I'd like a way to leave most of it behind in the kettle.

     b.  Gravity is not the best way to move wort through the plate chiller on its way to the
           fermenter.  It is possible, but tricky, a big pain in the ass.  I need a way to move wort 
           through the plate chiller that is more reliable and consistent than gravity.

That's the basic outline.  I would also like to add the ability to whirlpool after flameout.  I have already planned out my upgrades and purchased the parts and equipment that I need in order to hopefully overcome these limitations.  In the next post or two, I will lay out the plan.